Hello Brett,
The safari went very well. We were delighted with Edo's and Footsteps camps. We didn't know how good we had it until we went to Savute and found it was a bit big and rowdy for our liking. Although once a particular group moved on we found it was also an excellent place.
The only piece that wasn't a great success was the Michelangelo Hotel. We had packed light per instructions and when we went to eat in the lounge (not the restaurant) the waiter objected to Robert's sandals and made him feel so unwelcome that he couldn't even eat. The internet access / computers weren't working. The concierge wasn't there. The water didn't get hot in the shower until I had given up on it, shampooed in body temperature water, washed and was getting out. Also the driver was 45 minutes late to take us back to the airport. That had us nervous.
(Brett’s comment: The Michelangelo is a 5 Star Hotel and normally gets excellent reviews, so I am surprised about the above. I have taken up the lateness of the driver with the transfer company contracted in for the transfer)
At Edo's camp we were able to view rhino at the watering hole in the evening and also track them on foot. We came upon a group of 4. It was intimate, the staff were very friendly and we really had every convenience we needed. In the dry air I didn't need a hairdryer although i'm told there is one point in the dining room bathroom that can supply enough current. At the most, there were only two vehicles and we always had premium viewing and immaculate hospitality. The guides were very knowledgable. We also learned our kudu from our waterbok and got to feel comfortable that way. We are able to visit a cattle post briefly and go out with some San to see how they dug for roots before the modern ways came. We tasted some of what they dug up (with no ill effects). The kids were so friendly and wanted to be in the camera all the time. It was another memorable part of the experience. The vehicles there have you sit up high - at roof level - for better viewing in the taller bush. You're not in the shade but you do see so much more.
At Footsteps we got ridiculously lucky. There was a couple at Edo's scheduled to come with us but they didn't feel well so elected to stay at Edo's. That meant we had Footsteps to ourselves. It took the guides a day to warm up (I think to see how serious we were and how happy we would be with bucket showers etc.) but then they were fantastic. We saw a leopard catch and kill a baboon right in front of us, not 20 feet away on the path. We observed a pair of cheetah sunning themselves on a mound and followed them for a long time. We saw a couple of hyaena briefly. And there was a python that decided to head our way - we were between it and the bushy area on foot - so strictly it wasn't chasing us but it did seem like it when he did a u-turn and came straight for us. This camp was the highlight of the trip for us. Again, we had everything we needed and picked up some camping tips. The only time we saw another vehicle was if we called Shinde for a special sighting (like the cheetah) or they called us (a group of 4 lions). We felt like we had the whole delta to ourselves. We added a lot of new animal types, including the tail (only) of a rock monitor as well as hippo, crocodile, tsessebe etc. To get to and from the airport we had quite a deep crossing at one point. All the luggage was up high and they had to open the doors to let everything drain. We also did a short mokoro ride. The guides and camp staff were ridiculously flexible. We drove or walked for each activity depending on what they heard or the tracks they saw. When we saw the leopard kill we ended up coming back for lunch an hour late but it wasn't a problem. No one was upset. The food was still good and the guides were so excited at what we had seen. They told us, and I believe it, that we could be there five years running and never see all that we saw. We learned a bit about their lives too and shared our differences. That was interesting too. As we were honeymooners they were asking about the bride price etc. (but to be clear, only in a very polite and interested way, not at all offensive).
At Savute we saw a lioness with porcupine quills in her and a pack of wild dogs that had just made a kill. But my goodness, people nearly came to blows over that since there were vehicles completely blocking the road that wouldn't move. It was a real traffic jam. It was quite a restricted feeling after the other two camps to only and ever stay on the path and never ever get out of the vehicle. We had excellent elephant viewing and did see leopard, lion, an excellent viewing of a hyaena pair and of course the wild dogs.
By the end of the trip the only thing we didn't see was buffalo. We saw dung and tracks in Footsteps and dung in Savute, in both cases on the last day (morning drive) without time to track further. But I think we'd value the other sightings higher. After all we have buffalo coming out of our ears in Colorado so it's not so novel.
We also thought Steve did a great job when we did the day in the Cape. I must admit I haven't used a personal guide before - what will they be like, will they know about things we're interested in - but based on our experience with him, I would surely do it again. And Robert was delighted with the penguin and Oryx sightings.
I'd try to find a way to reduce the light aircraft transfers though. That was no fun coming back from Savute (I was ill and Robert nearly) and not much fun getting to Savute (we both nearly were ill). It was so hot and choppy and no room to move.
The length of the trip was about right. 8 nights instead of 9 might have been OK too. By the final drive we were ready not to be shaken around again! We slept well and were too well fed - now we have to lose the extra 5 pounds we gained. Neither of us were ill (except for travel sickness), no sunburn and fewer bites that 2 weeks in Atlanta would have got us. I also think we might have picked the best time of year in terms of climate, not for Cape Town but in terms of how pleasant it was to be outside at the camps and in tents. It got down to probably 39C in Edo's but we weren't uncomfortable in the tents sleeping or even showering.
A few people have said to me, I'd like to do that some day, and I will be glad to recommend you.
Thanks again for making our arrangements and providing good advice.
Louise
Guests Visited Edo's Camp & Footsteps Across the Delta & Savute Safari Lodge