We decided to travel on safari to Zimbabwe in January 2008. I had never visited Victoria Falls or Zimbabwe. Lance hadn't returned for 13 years. Following a long day spent in the hustle and bustle of airports, delays and getting to grips with ‘African Time’ we eventually reached our destination, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.
We were met at the airport by a representative for Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, our residence for the first two nights of our trip. As we arrived at the front entrance to the Lodge, a spectacular thatched affair, we wondered where the rest of the hotel was hidden. The Lodge holds up to 72 guests, but has been built using natural materials of wood and oversized thatch in three separate structures, that really did blend into their environment. The most significant feature of the lodge was the view over the bush and the ever popular watering hole. Our time in the lodge seemed to centre around this view. The restaurant, viewing deck, pool, lounge and bar are all located in the main building and situated in a way that wherever we were, we were guaranteed not to miss whatever animals decide to drop by. Our room, decorated in traditional African style, also had a private balcony overlooking the same area and it was a perfect place to sit, relax and watch the rain roll in…for rain we had plenty! This has been one of the wettest summers in Victoria Falls for over 50 years. The weather was the hot topic of the day and taking into account the worldwide changes in weather in the past year, it seems that global warming has extended its effect to Zimbabwe also. We were treated to thunder storms and heavy rain, so much so that it reminded it of my last trip in KwaZulu Natal. I’m starting to think this is going to happen me every time I plan a safari - luck of the Irish I suppose!
Feeling a little adventurous we decided to do the ‘Big Air’ with Shearwater adventure company- in between showers of course! The ‘Big Air’ is a Bungee jump and bungee swing from the bridge over the Zambezi River, located close to the falls and then a slide across the gorge on a wire and harness. No, it wasn’t planned and no, if I knew what it was about, I would not do it again! Anyway, we did it, got the photos to prove it and provided much entertainment for each other and the locals crossing the bridge and sheltering from the showers at the time. We also visited the great Victoria Falls. Luckily, we had paid an exorbitant amount to rent raincoats one of the commercial units and managed to stay relatively dry. The falls were one of the highlights of our trip. Even in the rain they looked magnificent, especially as they appeared and disappeared magically in the mist. That evening we booked dinner at ‘The Boma’ restaurant that was situated close to the hotel. This was a fun way to witness and sample some of the local culture, tradition and food. We threw ourselves into it, getting our faces painted and banging on drums like we were born to do it…well, we thought so anyway!
The following day we were picked up by Dabula and began our four hour trip to The Hide in Hwange National Park. Normally this is a three hour drive, however they had also experienced heavy rainfall and driving was slower due to flooding and dangerous roads within the National Park. Our journey from Victoria Falls to Main Camp in Hwange, allowed us time to take in a very green and beautiful Zimbabwe. We were also impressed with the condition of the roads on this section that would make self-drive a fairly stress free affair. We briefly stopped at Main Camp where we got a separate transfer to The Hide.
The Hide Safari Lodge is on a private concession within Hwange National Park. The most striking element of arriving here is how peaceful it is. This is a game rich park that is almost the size of Belgium and easily accessible, but has not been exploited or developed and is rather under-utilized. This makes for an incredible safari experience. The Hide is only one of two lodges (with Makalolo Camp) operating in this eastern part of Hwange and one seldom sees any other vehicle on a game drive. This is about experiencing nature for what it is. There is no such thing as waiting in line with 6 other vehicles to see a kill or having your peace interrupted by the constant buzzing radio. Our game drives were enjoyable despite the rain and the thick foliage which made for difficult viewing. We have been on safari before so we weren’t too concerned with ‘ticking off the big five’. We also had excellent guides and their knowledge and enthusiasm made even the tics on the dung beetle interesting! It’s our impression that Zimbabwe game guides are probably some of the most professional and trained guides in the industry.
We were also struck by how exciting the game viewing could be in the dry season, even from the Lodge itself. The Hide makes the most of its location. Accommodation is in 10 separate tents positioned in a way that gives each one a spectacular view of the large (and even larger during the rains!) watering hole. This is not a fenced Lodge and you can have any animal grazing by your private viewing deck or popping in for a quick hello while you are enjoying dinner, and this is almost guaranteed during the dry season. True to its name, the Hide also has two hides where guests can get the ‘fly on the wall’ experience – not exactly enticing places for us in the rain, but, again, when its not so wet, I could see how you could happily sit here while various dramas unfold.
Our stay in the Hide was enjoyable and very relaxing. Meals are taken together at the large dining table or the boma. This includes guests and staff.
The BBC have just finished filming a reality show based from The Hide, which will air in March 2008. The combination of great sightings, professional staff, quality accommodation and added exposure from the BBC series, the Hide will be a difficult place to get a booking in future. There are so many places I have yet to visit, but I have to say, this is one place that I could see myself returning.
We were initially cautious travelling to Zimbabwe in light of ongoing political issues and economic difficulties, but in retrospect, we are very happy that we did. Zimbabwe is a land of contrasts at the moment. There are very few facilities for its citizens and a lot of trading is done on the black market. A lack of development has preserved the landscape and wildlife and makes for a wonderful destination. The people here are vibrant, well educated and friendly. Employment is the key to survival, subsequently, tourism is vital to the lives of many.
A little bit of preparation goes a long way if you are planning to travel to Zimbabwe. Our advice would be;
1. Bring old clothes and shoes to trade for local crafts
2. Have a first aid kit with any medication you may need eg. Paracetemol, sinutab, zirtex, etc.
3. Bring plenty of sun cream in your suitcase. Ours got confiscated as it was in our hand luggage. When we arrived we purchased some in a reputable pharmacy and subsequently found that it was counterfeit.
4. Have fun