Renate from Sun Safaris recently returned from a 20 day educational to Botswana, Victoria Falls, Madikwe and the Kruger Park. Read more about her experiences below.
BOTSWANA
Vumbura Plains – 06 May 2007
I was bubbling with so much excitement about my first trip to Botswana and the amount of adrenalin that was pumping through my veins only allowed me to get proper sleep in until 05h00 in the morning.
Upon landing at Vumbura Plains airstrip Russell (my guide) informed me that a pride of lions had just taken down a buffalo and had started eating on it… we drove straight to the spot and sat there watching them fill their bellies.
Vumbura Plains Lodge have big chalets with private plunge pools, it would have been an ideal destination if I was on honeymoon!
As I walked back to the main area of the lodge I saw an elephant making his way towards the trees that were aligned along the pathway that I was walking on - I started walking a bit faster than usual!
On the afternoon game drive we saw a hippo out early busy grazing, normally they wait until the sun has gone down properly before they come out of the water to feed, not this guy he was way too hungry to wait for dinner time. After our sun-downer drinks we did the evening game drive and saw loads of general game.
Kwetsani Camp – 07 & 08 May 2007
Wake up call! Came at 06h00 am had a quick cup of coffee and a rusk before heading for the morning game drive, we drove back to the spot where we saw the lions the day before, but they had moved on… it looked like the smell of decaying meat had lured the hyenas and they came and cleaned the dinner table as there was nothing left of the buffalo carcass not even a bone.
But minutes later low and behold a cheetah! The wind blew from the direction where the lions had taken down the buffalo and he became very uneasy and started moving faster to higher ground to scan the perimeter better… Once on the termite hill he saw that the coast was clear and plopped himself comfortably on the hill.
I saw a lot of general game from Zebras, Kudu’s and Red lechwe etc and started heading back to the lodge for breakfast. After breakfast we headed to the airstrip and were surprised with a helicopter transfer to Kwetsani!
It was a brief 15 minutes flight from Vumbura to Kwetsani but the memory will live on forever. Kwetsani Camp, this was my favourite from all three lodges that I visited in the Okavango Delta, the hospitality, chalet, and food was all great.
As I walked to the main area of the lodge I saw two lionesses stalking red lechwe but unfortunately no action took place. On the afternoon game drive we saw loads and loads of elephant herds, general game, and about 28 different bird species from the African Fish-Eagles, Red-billed Francolins, and Saddle - billed Storks, Red-billed Francolins, Malachite Kingfisher, Grey -hooded Kingfisher, Red-billed Firefinch, Coppery-tailed Coucal, and Woodhoopoe.
Back at the lodge before dinner time, as everyone settled in the lounge with their drinks the staff entertained us by singing traditional songs.
Next morning we boated out to Hunda Island as most of the game move there when the seasonal flood plains start moving in fully. After the game drive I went on a site inspection of Jao Camp and Tubu Tree Lodge. Jao is an excellent family and honeymoon destination, their characteristic animals around the camp are leopard, lion and alot of general game.
Duma Tau 09 May 2007
Today instead of a morning game drive we went on a boat ride. After breakfast we flew to Duma Tau via Selinda Camp where I did another site inspection, Selinda’s location is perfect for alot of big cat activity especially leopards and lions.
After the light lunch at Selinda we then boated out to Duma Tau, as we were getting closer to the lodge an elephant crossed through the water right next to us and he headed in the same direction as we were heading, we had to wait until he got out of the water and passed the land-rover before we could get to it.
Arrived at Duma Tau and it wasn’t long before we headed off for the afternoon game drive. This time we saw alot of elephants, hippos and general game.
ZAMBIA
River Club 10 May 2007
After the morning game drive and breakfast we headed to the airstrip for our flight to Zambia via Kasane, we flew over the Victoria Falls and the pilot made sure that everybody in the aircraft was able to view it, it was amazing!
With a short road transfer and a 10 min boat ride we were at the River Club. I dropped my bags off in the room, and headed to Tongabezi for a site inspection. All their rooms are beautiful with great views.
After the site inspection it was time for the afternoon boat ride on the Zambezi River, where we saw alot of hippos and crocodiles. But mostly just took in the breathtaking scenery, the guide stopped the engine at a certain point and let the current push us back all the way to the River Club.
Since the River Club is so rich in its British history, I ended up playing a game of crochet with other guests after dinner, it was great fun! For me the River Club is a great place to start or end your safari with.
Zambezi Sun 11 May 2007
This morning the wake up call came at 07h00, and after breakfast I headed off to go see the Victoria Falls, came back very wet but I couldn’t get enough of its splendour, the driver then dropped me off at the Zambezi Sun.
After checking in, I got into a taxi and headed off to The Royal Livingstone Hotel and Zambezi Waterfront for some more site inspections, The Royal Livingstone Hotel was stunning. The Zambezi Waterfront is an average establishment, but there are also great views.
SOUTH AFRICA
Mondior Hotel 12 May 2007
After arriving at the Emperor’s Palace Mondior Concorde Hotel, I started studying my maps as I was going to be driving to and from Madikwe Game Reserve for the next two days.
The Bush House 13 May 2007
Got the vehicle from Budget Rent-A-Car and started driving to Madikwe Game Reserve, finally got to The Bush House in time for a cup of tea and a small snack before the afternoon game drive, there was a herd of elephants drinking at the waterhole in front of The Bush House and this herd had alot of young baby elephants. it was fun watching them play and squirt water.
On the game drive, we headed to one of the bigger waterholes in the reserve and found two male lions eating on a rhino carcass. There were 50 to 70 vultures waiting in trees for the lions to finish their share.
Thakadu 14 May 2007
The next morning wake up call cat Thakadu River Camp came at 06h00 am and no sooner were we out on a morning game drive, and saw three white rhino’s! The other guest got to see the wild dogs but I had missed them unfortunately.
After my game drive I went to Buffalo Ridge, Tuningi, Motswiri and The Madikwe Farm House inspections. I had breakfast at Buffalo Ridge and must say that they have a fantastic view as it’s situated on top of a valley and their waterhole being at the bottom of the valley makes game viewing great.
There are only three sables in the entire reserve and I had the opportunity of seeing two at the waterhole of Buffalo Ridge, not to mention lots and lots of elephants.
Tuningi and Motswiri are “sister” lodges both look exactly the same, but their décor differ a bit. Both these lodges I thought are great family destinations.
Madikwe Farm House; well lets just say I wouldn’t mind going up there with my family soon or even with my friends, it’s a private self-catering establishment in Madikwe Game Reserve, and would be an ideal destination to go to for an Easter weekend?
After lunch I departed back to Johannesburg.
Pafuri 16 & 17 May 2007
Woke up at 08h00 and after breakfast was transferred to Lanseria airport. After a two hour flight from Lanseria to Pafuri, the afternoon game drive was somewhat different from all the others that I had been on, there were alot more different bird species and the scenery was also different. The fever tree forest was beautiful. And the occasional giant Baobab trees also showed their leafless branches.
On
The one thing that stood out from this Camp was the bush-babies, they were in almost every tree; we saw porcupines, a black mamba snake and an ant carrying away a baby scorpion that it had just killed. Here it wasn’t about the big five, it was more about the beautiful scenery and the nocturnal animals + the huge bird population. There are also alot of elephants and buffalo’s.
D' Oreale Grande Hotel 18 May 2007
D’ Oreale Grande is a great 5 star hotel, the service, food and accommodation was all excellent.
Akeru Safari Lodge 19 May 2007
After collecting the vehicle I drove to Akeru Safari Lodge situated in the Timbavati Game Reserve, Akeru is a lovely safari lodge and is an excellent safari destination within the Timbavati. The staff were very friendly, courteous and helpful. The accommodation is of a very high standard, and all chalets are tastefully decorated and romantic. In addition to the superb accommodation, Akeru serves the most delicious meals ever! Their chef deserves a medal! There is a very comfortable lounge & bar area, a "games" room (perfect for teenagers and younger kids), a large swimming pool and a curio shop. The lodge also overlooks a waterhole. In addition there is a resident family of warthogs that graze on the lawns - they aren't tame though! In addition to the fantastic facilities, the quality of guiding & tracking at Akeru was superb. Kerry was excellent. On the first game drive we saw an Elephant bull, he was huge, and later walking across the road one hyena, the first time I had seen one.
Motswari 20 May 2007
The next morning wake up call came at 05h30, and on this morning game drive I saw 3 lionesses lazing in the sun. It was good to see the big cats again. And also saw a big herd of buffalo. We passed a waterhole and saw the ugliest bird in the Reserve namely the marabou stork – really really ugly!
After breakfast I departed for Motswari but went to Kings Camp for a quick site inspection, Kings Camp is really beautiful, they have a lovely view, and their chalets are beautiful and big. Motswari’s bathrooms were a bit out dated, but they are currently busy renovating them.
Gomo Gomo Lodge 21 May 2007
Gomo Gomo was my favourite lodge! We managed to see the big five in one day, the first sighting was a male leopard, then a male lion, after which we saw a male white rhino, one male buffalo and last but not least an elephant bull!
The staff members were fantastic, helpful and always making sure that I was comfortable and happy at all times, the food was great as well, I got to taste what an impala stew tasted like! The view from the main area of the lodge is also beautiful, there were hippos in the water and later that afternoon two young elephant bulls came and bathed in the river. I definitely plan on going there again in the near future.
Elephant Plains 22-May-07
I really enjoyed my time at Elephant Plains - I got to see a big pride of lions consisting of two lionesses, one young male and six cubs (that were about three to four months old). The honeymoon suite that I stayed in was absolutely stunning.
Kirkman's Kamp 23 May 2007
After the morning game drive and breakfast at Elephant Plains I departed for Kirkman’s Kamp, I didn’t get to see alot of animals on my game drive, due to the weather change a cold front had hit the country and the animals were nowhere to be found. This placed alot of pressure on the poor guides though, and I felt sorry for them as it was out of their hands.
Shishangeni 24 May 2007
After the ice-cold morning game drive and hearty breakfast, I departed for my last destination Shishangeni; while driving towards the lodge I was held up by a herd of buffalo, as soon as the “traffic jam” cleared I proceeded forward to the lodge and after I checked in I went on a site inspection of the two sister Camps, namely Camp Shawu and Camp Shonga.
Camp Shonga is a great little tented lodge with an attractive view of the hills separating South Africa from Mozambique. I had a sun downer drink at Camp Shawu and watched the hippos in the river in front of the main area of the Camp, the view was beautiful. Got back to Shishangeni for dinner, and a serval cat was walking outside on the patio, he really didn’t care much about us seated inside the dinning room watching him. The manager said that he was a regular visitor.
The next morning after breakfast I departed back to Johannesburg, dropped the vehicle off and connected onto my flight back to Cape Town!
What I’ll always remember is the silence of nature that spoke very loud…