Safari Blog

Liselle,

you are welcome to more feedback - here goes.

I must admit I was nervous of working over the internet with an unknown company. Accordingly I considered numerous plans in case the driver did not meet us at the airport. As we came through customs, there he was, our names on a board - and correctly spelt. (You have no idea on how many variations of Sykes I have encountered). This was the first time I felt at ease with the arrangements. He was a good driver, dropping us off at the hotel with little fuss. We could not find fault with him, even if we were a bit jet lagged and grumpy. The hotel was adequate and certainly what we wanted - a non smoking room, a clean bed (that was not flying throught the air) and a little room to stretch our legs in the garden.

David wanted to visit Johannesburg, so we organised a driver through hotel reception. A very well spoken and knowlegeable man who drove well, taking us to various places in the city. Some areas were more dodgy than others and it was certainly an eye opener for my son.

The following morning we were ready about 20 minutes early and I was a bit nervous. I am not sure why, but I was. Either way, transport to Timbervati arrived about 5 minutes later, the driver apologising for being early. Not a problem. The drive to the park was well organised in that the stops were in the right places. The journey was relatively uneventual till we reached the escarpment, thick with mist and very poor visibility in places. The driver slowed down and stayed behind a prime mover with semi trailer for quite a while as we could barely see the truck's tail lights, never mind if it was safe to overtake. This became our first introduction to real South African driving. An idiot overtook us and the semi on a double barrier line in thick fog! No wonder a single day's fatalities is more than the Australian fatalities for the month of December!

We reached Joshmacs without further ado, signed in with the minimum of fuss and then on to the park, sighting a pair of Giraffe just prior to entering the park. The sign just inside the entrance produced a wry smile - "Dung Beatles have right of way". The Timbervati camp was great, all I had expected and dared hope for. The proximity to the river raised expectations of what we might see. It did not take ourselves long to feel at home and then the guides told us how to behave in the bush, what to look out for and how much there was to see. We did not realise how soon we needed this knowlege! I seem to recollect we went out in the vehicle that evening, but I do not have any real recollection of what we saw - the time shift and the long flight were catching up with me.

The intention was from that point on we would be active when the animals were active. We would rise at about 3am, have a light breakfast and then walk for about 4 hours. Then we would have real breakfast and sleep/snooze/laze about till 3pm (lunch) and then drive to where the animals were, walking whenever we saw something of interest. Supper was when we returned.

The first morning was a bit quiet, but then we began to see more and more animals. We were walking along a track fairly near camp when the guides and I heard a noise and then saw elephant quite close to us. We grouped together as instructed and watched. Unfortunately the matriach took exception to us and charged. We ran to the dry river and up the other side as planned, with one guide staying between us and the angry animal. I must admit the adrenalin was pumping somewhat (Elephant angry.jpg)! We walked back to camp, seeing a buffalo pair plus one young amongst other animals. That night we went for sundowners, watching a pair of hippo in a dam - a really pleasant way to end the day. The following day we walked to the edge of a Mopani thicket and heard elephant in within. The guides surmised that the elephant were heading for a nearby waterhole so we did a U turn out of the thicket and walked around to the water hole. Our group then sat in an area of bush on the opposite side if the waterhole to the Mopani thicket and waited. Soon 6 or 7 elephant arrived, with young. As we were watching the family group, another group joined them, and then a third. At one point there was over 40 elephant (including young) at the waterhole, the nearest being some 30m away!

That evening we used the vehicles and saw some rhino in the bush. We alighted to go nearer - and were rewarded with a great view. As the rhine moved off, so did we, and saw a herd of buffalo - fairly small herd (wrong!) We approached the herd on foot and got some spectacular views before returning to the vehicle to drive to the sundowner spot, overlooking another dam. The small herd (approx 100 - 200) then came past us, down to drink.

I am sure many of these sightings were not pure coincidence, but due to the guides knowlege and skill.

The following day we went to Klaserie - a completely different camp. This camp overlooks a flowing river and there was a small herd of elephant on the far side. This camp was a bit more rustic, but about to be upgraded. (a good idea - the loo had no roof. This is not really a problem till it rains and the loo paper gets wet. Mind you, this is all character building!)

Again, we walked in the mornings and used the vehicles in the evening. We saw quite a few animals and birds. The second morning at Klaserie started off fairly quietly, till a lion roared some 200m away. Boots were on, cameras grabbed and we walked quickly toward the sound. The guides saw something, motioning us to stop. As we grouped together and stopped, a male lion came trotting out of the bush directly towards us. We froze, moving nothing but the shutter finger. After about 30 seconds, the lion turned on its heels and was off, to other males following (grumpy lion...jpg). From there we went back to camp, got in the vehicle and headed past the lions and stopped on a dry river bank. Once again, the guides were right. The lions walked past us on the opposite bank, no problem. From there we saw wildebeest, kudu and the usual host of impala till the guide in the trackers chair saw some drag marks. A freshly killed waterbuck was hidden in the reeds, not a lion to be seen. We left the area with the promise to return later - and we did. The lioness' were there, with about 6 cubs. That night the heavens opened and we did not get the chance to see the lion feed, but wow, the 5 days was an experience my son and I will never forget!

Our connection to Nelspruit arrived on time the following day and we arrived at Nelspruit airport without further ado - except wishing we were still in Klaserie! I must also point out, that Nelspruit is one of the best regional airports I have seen in the world - I mean, where else would you get double story thatched airport buildings with an atmosphere that many top restaurants would envy?

The connection from there to Cape Town, joining my mum and then to Port Elizabeth was problem free - all that I could ask for.

To the more mundane. I booked the particular game park primarily because of the camping and walking and because we could get in the week before the RSA school holidays. I did not wish to be part of a normal 8am rush hour in the city, while attempting to see animals and get a bit of peace and quiet. I did not realise that we would be the only people in the Timbervati and Klaserie reserves - It was truly great to see only our tracks and those of our wild neighbours. The camping was more than adequate. Thatch roofs certainly keep the tents cool and habitable. The food was not that of a 5 star restaurant, but we did not want a 5 star restaurant. It was certainly tasty, plentiful and fresh. What more could we ask for? I had some concern regarding the pace and distance of the walks. I am very fit but did not know what to expect. The walks generally lasted some 4 hours and were conducted at an easy pace, with plenty of stops to look at anything that caught the eye, for water or to take photographs.

In short, I must congratulate the guides for a fantastic few days. If I were allowed only one word to describe the time in the park, it could only be "Tops!"

Rob Sykes

ps, I hope the photos did not overfill your inbox! If you wish to publish the feedback, go ahead. Please acknowlege the two guides, Philip and Cornelius and myself as the author